End of my hardest semester to date

Finals ended this past week. My first days wholly free of obligations and worry have been spent in blissful sleep, sunny beaches, and recovering from the social isolation that became necessary to complete my work. I owe all of you an update, not on the work, which has been challenging, if tedious, but on the brief moments this semester when I have actually done something worth sharing.

In mid-October, one of the few Korean students in my building asked me for help with a big international food festival they have for my dormitory. As our building has students from almost every country in Asia, it was going to be an impressive affair. While my friends who cooked for the American food delegation gave me a hard time about betraying my country and cooking for Korea (they ended up making chicken-fried steak, cinnamon apples, green beans, and tex-mex), I'm glad I had a chance to practice my Korean cuisine.



We were a pretty subdued bunch, especially compared with the Indonesians.



The dormitory, while more of a communal experience than I've had before in terms of housing, has been fun. I quickly discovered that when you are surrounded by people from countries you know embarrassingly little about, the best way to start a conversation is about the food they cook. Just tonight I spent an hour listening to an explanation of why Iraqis eat so many dates and the trouble of being a date farmer.

Thanksgiving was a series of fantastic potluck dinners, similar to the way I spent it last year with friends in Washington. With the few days I had free for the holiday, I also sneaked out of the computer lab to hike near my valley. Past a waterfall that is reputed to have been a favorite of Obama as a child and up Mount Tantalus is a view through the mountain range clear to the other side of Oahu.



You can just barely see the ocean over the wild coffee trees.

As lush as Hawaii is, I have sadly not been able to live out my dreams of eating nothing but tropical fruit. Since almost all of food is imported from the mainland or Asia, even the papayas and pineapples are actually more expensive than they were back in Connecticut. To bring a little local variety into what I eat, I started getting a weekly subscription of produce from a farm on the island. Below you can see one of my first delivery boxes, with basil, limes, eggplant, and green onions.



The only difficulty of getting the deliveries is identifying and finding out how to cook some of the randomized produce I receive.

With the arrival of the winter vacation, as paradoxically as it seems, I have finally started going to the beach. It is a balmy 75 degrees here most days, and the only reminder I have that it is cold on the East Coast is the change in cup designs at the Starbucks.

When I go to the beach, alongside the tourists from the mainland and the far more tan locals, (I'm still pale as can be) there are also many Japanese tourists. Areas of Waikiki feel more oriented toward the Japanese than to Americans. I realized the extent of this when I visited a beach near the heart of Honolulu, which was filled with honeymooning Japanese couples getting their vacation photos taken. I took this picture just as a group of schoolgirls from Japan had discovered a couple and moved into the shot.



It has been very interesting trying to make sense out of the diversity in Honolulu, it's completely different from anywhere else I have lived in America. Being in the minority once again also means that it will be very different readjusting to life in Connecticut when I go back this summer.

I will try to soon post the photos from my trip to Shanghai this past summer, (very very late, I know). Have a great winter everyone!

Views from Honolulu

Nighttime at my university.


A praying mantis flew into my dormitory one night, this guy was about three inches long. He just perched on the curtain and imitated a leaf by slowly swaying from side to side.


The dormitory where I live. I have a single room on the tenth floor with a great view of Diamond Head, an old crater right on the beach.


A hiking path I took up Makiki Valley recently. The event was a field trip with the rest of the people in my department and a few professors.


The flowers bloom all year here.


Another view from the path, the valley is a picture-perfect rainforest


The view from the top of one of the mountains in Makiki, you can see my campus on the left and the ocean way in the background.

Watermelon tastes better at the top

Double Rainbows

Grad school is another level of busy I only could have seen in my nightmares, but I'm optimistic.

Fortunately, Hawaii does its best to cheer me up whenever I venture outside of the library, showing me double rainbows and offering some great views.





This is a view from one of the valleys, I went out with some other students in my program during the orientation week to check out some taro farms.



Trees confuse me here. It seems like they grow about ten feet out of the ground, get confused and try to go back in the earth.

Life has settled into a routine, for good or worse. I burn the midnight oil six days a week, then escape during a weekend day and remember I live in paradise.

Welcome ceremony, the East-West Center

While I am at the University of Hawaii pursuing my M.A., I am also an affiliate member of an educational institute that is attached to the university, called the East-West Center. The center funds graduate students and lots of different cultural exchange programs. I have entered into a program of theirs that allows me to stay in a dormitory in their campus, along with about one hundred and fifty other graduate students from all over Asia and America.

The housing experience has been wild already. As prices are higher in Hawaii than anything I am used to, and as it is relatively convenient, I am cooking my meals with the other students in big communal kitchens built into each floor. Alongside my quasi-Korean dishes are pots of Thai soup, chicken being fried by some Iraqi Phds, along with a half a dozen other dishes I cannot recognize from Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, and the Phillipines.

During the day, I have been going through orientation procedures with the other students. The organizers kicked off the official welcome with a hula ceremony. It was actually very nice, I lost any preconceptions I had of it being a hollow exercise for the sake of tourists.

Afterward, alumni from our program circulated through the audience and gave us lei's.





With my few hours free in the afternoon, I decided to tour around Honolulu and see a little bit more of the city where I will live for the next year. While the first thing I noticed was the unusual makeup of the city, which is composed primarily of Japanese, Hawaiians, Chinese, and Pacific Islanders. While I make the distinction of their origin, what was even more unusual for me was how Americanized it all was, despite the diverse origins.

In terms of the physical city, it reminds me of a tropical Stamford, with a clean if infrequent bus system, low buildings, and plenty of discount stores and bar and grills.

Arrived in Honolulu, backlog of memories

Hello,

I have been quite busy the past two weeks, as I traveled to Shanghai the day after my internship ended, spent a week exploring that city, then left for Honolulu just two days after I returned from Shanghai.

I will try to upload photos and stories as soon as possible, but I don't want to skip too much of the past few weeks, which were an exhausting, memorable time.

Visiting Suwon

I traveled thirty minutes south of Seoul by train three weekends ago, to visit a satellite city and the castle located in the middle of it. I have been to around a dozen Korean cities beforehand, but somehow I was surprised by how similar this one was to Seoul, Yeosu, Jeju-si, Mokpo, and the rest. Like always, the main streets were a hyperstimulating riot of pc bang, cafe, restaurant, and cell phone storefronts. Just out of the city center were the identical apartment blocks, their even rows evoking tombstones.



The one unusual feature of Suwon was that the city center was encircled by the remains of a fortress constructed about three hundred years ago. If you look closely on the left, you can see the green ring of grass and castle wall dividing the low-rise apartment buildings.



The fortress itself was great to see, quiet and cool because of the trees that had grown up around it.



This was a fantastic public restroom, one of many in Korea. I won't go in to too much detail, but the lighting and decorations made it look nicer than many apartments that I've stayed in. It even had a name, Azalea Flower Restroom.

While I have been too busy to do much sightseeing on this trip to Korea, traveling to Suwon reassured me that, for better or for worse, I haven't missed much. Put simply, all of the populated areas in Korea look very similar.